Circuit-bending a Funky Furby #5: switches

Working directly on the circuitboards to find glitches was very difficult, especially since most actions involve, well, action and the Furby kept moving around.

Not a particularly effective solution...

Not a particularly effective solution...

Removing the feet again allows the Furby to stand fairly steadily on the base of the battery compartment without the leg cams reaching the surface it’s on to make the body move. However, this also means you have to down tools and pick the Furby up each time you need to turn him onandoffagain. With all the exposed mechanics and electronics, finding a safe place to pick him up by is a challenge in itself.

On-off switch

The on-off switch doesn’t appear to be directly connected to the battery compartment as in simpler electronic toys I’ve worked with, instead 3 wires come out from the back of the switch and join onto the circuitboard.

snipped wires from on-off switch

snipped wires from on-off switch

I just snipped the yellow, red and green wires about an inch away from the switch (enough to leave me room to solder back onto the wires going into the switch, if needed) and then extended the wires connected to the circuitboard and soldered a SPDT toggle switch onto the other ends.

Extensions to the on-off switch wires

Extensions to the on-off switch wires

Tickle me

I also wanted to add remote switches to the belly, mouth and back of the Furby. All these plug into the circuitboard and, thanks to the coloured wires, are reasonably easy to identify.

Wires from switches; old and new

These are actually connections for LEDs (see later) but the principle is the same for the switches

It’s also pretty straightforward to solder a couple of extra wires onto the leads of the plugs where they come out onto the front of the circuitboard. I’m just using some momentary push-to-make switches to trigger the Furby. It’s nice to have a few actions that are not in response to voice commands.

Audio jack, glitch switch and back trigger

Audio jack, glitch switch and push buttons for belly and back

I also tried to use a push-to-make switch to control the sound glitch, but found I was killing a lot of switches in the process. At first I thought I was over-heating them at the soldering stage and messing up some of the internal contacts, but I eventually noticed (with the help of my multimeter) that it was after a few pushes that the switch stopped working. I thought that the current might be too high for the switches and so added in a 10ohm resistor, but was still getting sketchy results.

Increasing the resistance had the effect of speeding up the sound (not particularly desirable) so rather than increase the resistance I eventually abandoned the push-to-make switches in favour of a chunkier toggle switch (also with 10 ohm resistor).

At one stage I tried a large latching push-to-make switch, but I struggled with this because it was never clear whether it was on or off. If you’re going to go down this route, I suggest maybe using one with an indicator LED…

All-in-all there’s now a significant number of wires coming off the Furby and the solder points are quite delicate – particularly those ones that connect directly to the circuitboard. In order to add some protection against accidental pulls, I tied a piece of nylon cord to some of the plastic structure of the Furby and added a few polymorph figure-of-eights. I then looped each wire through the figure-of-eights before then taking it to the switch box. The nylon is slightly shorter than the length of the wires and tied off inside the switch box so it should hopefully take the brunt of any excess force.

Cord stay to protect wires from being pulled off

Cord stay to protect wires from being pulled off

The switch box: main on-off switch and audio jack, glitch toggle switch and 3 buttons for belly, mouth and back triggers

The switch box: main on-off switch and audio jack, glitch toggle switch and 3 buttons for belly, mouth and back triggers

Flashy lights

I’ve also attached a few LEDs to various points on the circuitboard (again, the solder points on the other side to where plugs attach). These were initially soldered straight onto the board, but have now been added onto wires in series with a 1k ohm resistor.

Initial (temporary) location of LEDs

Initial (temporary) location of LEDs

As I write this, the LEDs have made it to the ends of his ears and mohican spikey thing, but I’m not quite satisfied with the result. More tinkering required – perhaps either to add more LEDs down the length of the ears, or to add some sort of translucent cover.

I need a name from nikkipugh on Vimeo.

Circuit-bending a Funky Furby #4: audio jack

As I mentioned in the last post, I found some sound bends on the Funky Furby I’m circuit-bending.

The next step was to add an audio jack so I could play the Furby’s sound through a mini amp.

This is only the second project I’ve ever added an audio output to, so I’m still kind of fumbling my way through.

To cut a long story short, through a combination of peering at Alfonso‘s innards and section 7 of this circuit bending faq, I arrived at the following:

Wiring of the audio jack, including a 10 ohm resistor between points a and c

Wiring of the audio jack, including a 10 ohm resistor between points a and c

I’m using a 3.5mm enclosed chassis mount jack socket from RS, (part number 106-874), which has quite an open structure, so it’s pretty easy to see which bit is which.

Basically the two bottom connectors are the signals, and the one coming off the side is the ground.

Here’s a diagram of the wiring and how it connects up to the circuitboard and the speaker:

Diagram showing the wiring arrangement I ended up with for the audio jack

Diagram showing the wiring arrangement I ended up with for the audio jack

It’s ever so slightly different from what’s described on the oscillateur faq page, since I’m connecting c to b, rather than c to the ground of the speaker. I did try that, but got no sound.

The other thing I’m finding is that I still get sound from the Furby’s speaker when I plug the amp in. This doesn’t happen when the resistor is omitted, but the sound quality isn’t so nice, so I think I’ll put up with that.

I’m still not really convinced I’m doing this right, but I’ve not yet found any other combination of wiring that works. Maybe I’ve got my positive and negative terminals on the speaker mixed up?

If anyone can point me in the direction of a solution then I’d be most grateful, because this is something that’s going to keep coming up and I’d quite like to learn how to do it properly!

Update!
I had wrongly identified which were the positive and negative terminals on the speaker. After changing that starting point, the audio jack now works as expected with the following wiring:

Correct (I think!) wiring for the audio jack. Without an amp plugged in, the Furby's internal speaker is used. When the amp is plugged in, the internal speaker cuts out.

Correct (I think!) wiring for the audio jack. Without an amp plugged in, the Furby's internal speaker is used. When the amp is plugged in, the internal speaker cuts out.

Circuit-bending a Funky Furby #3: sound chip

Today I found a stable bend point on the Funky Furby I’m trying to circuit-bend!

On a whim I started exploring the small chip behind his left ear and I found this:

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

Connecting a few different pins (with a wire, to short circuit them) gives the same effect. I’ve marked them in the photo below…

Pink lines show where to short across the pins to get the effect in the recording. There are 4 different wiring options shown here - just choose one!

Pink lines show where to short across the pins to get the effect in the recording. There are 4 different wiring options shown here - just choose one!

These bends don’t affect movement at all. Though I’m happy to have found these ones – and think they’ll sound great when amplified – it’d be nice to have some movement loops too…

Update: Pete Ashton has set the above sound file to music

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

Circuit-bending a Funky Furby #2: looking for bends

I’ve not really got organised properly with this yet, but did stumble across a short-circuit yesterday that locked some of the motor stuff into a loop.

Motor glitch from nikkipugh on Vimeo.

Another furby bend point. Possibly. from nikkipugh on Vimeo.

Talking to the furby or pressing the belly or back switches doesn’t break the loop, so at the moment it looks like the only way to interrrupt the cycle is to turnitonandoffagain.

Circuit-bending a Funky Furby #1: de-skinning

Whilst there’s quite a few resources available online to help out with any planned circuit-bending of a regular furby, I’ve been unsuccessful in my searches for information relating to circuit-bending their larger relative, the Funky Furby.

This is probably one of the reasons why the purple and green critter I picked up at a carboot sale over the summer has been sat on my hack-shelf for so long, without even so much as having had fresh batteries put in it.

It is also the reason why I’m going to document as much of the process here as I can, starting with today’s instalment: de-skinning.

The first task is to remove the feet. This is likely to be the biggest hurdle due to the need for a triangular-shaped screwdriver. If you’ve got that (and a normal, small-sized cross-head screwdriver), then the rest is really quite straightforward.

The inner screw that joins the feet to the main body

The inner screw that joins the feet to the main body

After removing the two screws in the base of each foot, you can lift off the fleshy toe bit to reveal a second, black mount. This is where the feet connect to the main body, so you’ll need to remove these too. Once you have removed these (the screws are quite long) put all the foot parts and screws to one side – you’ll need these again later.

Under the feet

Under the feet

Removing the black mounts reveals a panel of plain material (rather than fur) with a small hole in it. If you poke around through this hole, back in the direction towards the battery compartment, you should be able to hook a finger (or maybe a screwdriver) under the black plastic strip that is sewn onto the white cloth along the corner edge where the battery compartment sticks up. Pull hard to undo the clip and free the fabric.

The tabs that hold the fabric in place around the base

The tabs that hold the fabric in place around the base

The tabs that hold the fabric in place around the base

Some of the tabs on my furby came out ok, but one or two snapped. Your mileage may vary…

After that, it’s a case of gradually peeling the fur up over the top of the furby.

Skin peel

Skin peel

It’s easiest to work up over the back and bring the pelt over the front of the face. There are a few more of those tab things, and a few other places where you need to unhook bits and pieces, but you don’t need to snip any of the stitching or anything around the face plate – the aim is just to clear the fur layer from the back half of the shell and any of the articulated bits coming out from the inside of the shell.

The tips of the ear levers need to be unpopped.

The tips of the ear levers need to be unpopped.

The eyebrow elastic needs unhooking from here

The eyebrow elastic needs unhooking from here

Once you have done this, you can unscrew the two halves of the shell and the fur, still attached by the face plate to the front half, can just stay how it is. The microphone is attached to the front half of the shell – unscrew this so you can remove the furby innards completely.

Furby innards revealed

Furby innards revealed

From here you can reattach the feet to give the little critter some stability and then you can do whatever you’re going to do with the electronics…

Kind of cute...

Kind of cute...

Circuitboard easily accesible on the side

Circuitboard easily accesible on the side

As I said, I haven’t found any references for bend points, so there’s a high chance the furby won’t make it through the next stage where I noodle around on the circuitboard looking for glitches. I made sure to get some video of him doing his stuff before I went any further:

Funky Furby from nikkipugh on Vimeo.

…after which I did actually Read The Manual and found out that you have to play music at it for it to dance!

I need to rig up some sort of jig or stand to hold the furby off the ground for the next stage – triggering sounds also means triggering movement and that makes it really difficult to work on the circuitboard to try and find the bends.

Hopefully the furby will survive long enough to have something to put in the next of what is planned to be a series of posts documenting the circuitbending process…

project space

I just wanted to say that the fizzPOP hackerspace is increasingly becoming the communal, collaborative production space for unpredictable creative things that I was hoping for when I left art school.

Actually, come to think about it, in many ways it’s quite like what I hoped art school would be.

Round up

It’s been a busy couple of weeks, here’s why:

w i d e o p e n s p a c e

w i d e o p e n s p a c e from BARG on Vimeo.

A fab afternoon with a great crowd of people. Heather wrote a nice summary of the first section and Nicky Getgood did a great job of capturing the non-games aspect of the afternoon which was to explore, and temporarily reclaim, some neglected urban spaces.

A song for Skatz

I spent 4 days being a secret agent at Linden Primary School.

We investigated, we hypothesised, we made a humming labyrinth, we transported a minstrel over from a parallel dimension where planets were losing their sunlight, and we helped him write a song that contained all the knowledge about light and shadows that they needed to bring the the sun back.

Audio clip: Adobe Flash Player (version 9 or above) is required to play this audio clip. Download the latest version here. You also need to have JavaScript enabled in your browser.

An excellent project where I was able to draw on a lot of the theory from game design in order to make an immersive experience that each of the 60 pupils could engage with in different ways. I hope to be able to write more about this once I know more about the permissions situation.

Rhubarb Radio

On the 17th of May I was a guest on Steadman and Grimes’ Sunday Social show on Rhubarb Radio. We talked about BARG and the w i d e o p e n s p a c e event. I’ve written the first of two posts on the BARG website that include the audio and a selection of links and further information relating to the things we talked about.

BARG website

barg.org.uk

Now BARG has been running for a few months and we’ve got a feel for what shape it is, pindec and I spent a lot of time last week coding up a website to cater for the different aspects of the network’s activity. Here’s the result: http://barg.org.uk/. We’ve loads more events planned and we’ll be using the website to put out all the details when the times come, so subscribe to the news feed, or make sure you join the mailing list if you want to get information by email.

Post Digital

Mudlark heralded their transfer to Birmingham and their arrival at Fazeley Studios by organising a “day of talks from inspirational friends and allies”.

Post Digital brought together an interesting collection of view-points and practices, to which I added a deliberately lo-fi potted history indicating how I had arrived at a practice where I hack up cardboard and masking-tape interfaces for GPS units.

I ended my presentation by asking what sort of post-digital spaces a pro-am sort of someone like myself might be prodding in a few years’ time…

Howduino

howduino

A brilliant event. I wrote about it on the fizzPOP website.



Copyright and permissions:

General blog contents released under a Creative Commons by-nc-sa license. Artworks and other projects copyright Nicola Pugh 2003-2019, all rights reserved.
If in doubt, ask.
The theme used on this WordPress-powered site started off life as Modern Clix, by Rodrigo Galindez.

RSS Feed.