October 29, 2006

Hillwalking

I’d heard great things about his tour, so when I got the chance I joined Johnny Hillwalker for a stroll around Kyoto.

Johnny Hillwalker's hat

After starting with the main Bhuddist (this-one-only-cares-if-you’re-dead) headquarters, where even the concrete looks good, we went on to visit a range of smaller shops and workshops that I’d otherwise have been completly oblivious to.

Folding-fans being assembled and pressed; sweet-makers making assorted things out of beans and sugar; and tatami mats being re-covered.

All this on top of the usual collection of lanterns, torii and prayer-boards that you’d expect from this corner of Japan.

Here’s his web page again in case you missed it first time around: http://web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/people/h-s-love/

Kiyomizu dera

Kiyomizu: pure water.

Kiyomizu dera: temple complex built on the site of a mountain spring… and ultraviolet sterilizer

kiyomizu uv

Sugamo

sugamo

Known as the Grandmothers’ Harajuku, in Sugamo you can buy knicker elastic in unlimited quantities at the flea-market in the shrine grounds.

sugamo knicker elastic

However, it doesn’t matter where you are in the world, Granny Jumpers are always the same…

granny jumpers

Himejijo

Rather marvelous.

40 winks

I’ve always been impressed by the amount of leg-room available on Japan’s shinkansen services, however when these 3 sleeeping beauties turned around the set of chairs in front and stretched out I was quietly amazed.

socks x 3

Hiroshima

atomic bomb dome

a week in Kumamoto

click on images for lager versions…

Exodus of obasan from the jinja:

obasan exodus

A stroll around the park:

suizenji kooen

The biggest koi carp you have ever seen:

koi

A 400 year old castle complete with concrete stairs and air conditioning throughout:

kumamoto castle

Collecting fresh spring water:

spring

…and fresh fruit:

orchard

Weather forecasting courtesy of 4-stick mountain:

4 stick mountain

Relaxing walks around the village (mosquitoes not withstanding):

sampo

Random foodstuffs:

daikon

An early morning drive to see Aso-san:

mountain mist

sunrise

And the volcano up close:

aso san

A Noh performance in front of the floodlit castle:

noh

Former residence of Hosokawa Gyobu (and when the current owners are finished with it, I’ll have it!)

residence

Many thanks to everyone in the zoo for their hospitality:

welcome to the mad house

oshio matsuri

As far as I could make out…

Everyone from the local area gathers together in and around a shrine conveniently located next to a large open area (and the hospital…) and has a bit of a jolly in the still-quite-hot autumn afternoon: food, music, games, more food.

shrine and lanterns

Each neighbourhood has a team of young gents that limber up during the afternoon…

red team watching

…in preparation for all hell breaking loose once it gets dark.

torii

Each team has a large omikoshi carriage thing (but no wheels and no horses!) that weighs about 2 tonnes and must be carried out of the shrine, out into the large open and then used to try and nudge an opposing team into submission.

red team doing

As you can see from this video clip, the crowd is right in there supporting their team, so it gets a bit hairy when the omikoshi suddenly launches itself in a particular direction: people have to try and scatter out of the way. It gets really interesting when you find yourself trapped between three of them all converging towards you!

and then the next day you’re back to seeing men with flashing beacons emplyed to safely guide you around completely fenced off road-workings…

Gion and Kodaiji

Garyoro (Reclining Dragon Corridor) and Otama-ya (Sanctuary):

bridge

Temple Garden:

garden

Gion house:

house

Gion tree:

tree

Shrine and cars:

cars

Gion lanterns:

lanterns

Iho-an (The Cottage of Lingering Fragrance, tea house):

tea house

Volume 17

This week I was due to meet up with a friend in Kyoto on Saturday, but I altered my plans so I could meet up with momentarium Markuz Wernli Saitô.

hostel baggage

This involved arriving a day early and spending the night in a youth hostel… and then oversleeping the next morning, trekking back to the station, faffing around trying to find a locker big enough for my bags, trekking to a different station and then arriving at Kamo Obashi Bridge 10 minutes after the scheduled bridge-sit was supposed to end.

Fortunately there was something of a crowd there and so I was still able to meet Markuz to invite him to take part in the project.

Markuz Wernli Saitô

Hopefully I will make it back to Kyoto next week to properly take part in one of the activities.



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